// application of first embroidery sample / jacket & dress
Process and reflection on look 1 //
drawstring dress with jacket
Before draping shapes for my first look, I had a vague idea of the
silhouette and texture I wanted to achieve. To compliment the loose and
contemporary embroidery sample, I wanted to explore relaxed and oversized
shapes. I unconventionally draped the
jacket before the dress. I played around with raised symmetrical hems to create
interesting shapes as well as layering multiple lengths to create depth, a
technique inspired by a garment I really admire. This process was relatively
easy and came quite naturally. I found the most challenging aspect of the
jacket the sleeves and creating the perfect armhole to allow for a clean
silhouette without much bulk. Sewing the garment up was very simple and quick.
After refitting the jacket on the mannequin I was able to make several
adjustments, this included raising the center hem 5cm and creating a more acute
line.
Having the jacket on the stand really allowed me to visualize a
dress that would really compliment simple shape and modern texture. This led me
to experiment with gathering and pleating. I used the method of sewing two
straight stitch lines and pulling the lower threads to achieve even gathering.
Then, sewing through the center of these two stitches to secure the gathers.
After completing the front of the dress using this technique I encountered
several problems. The first being; not having the fabric on the stand while
gathering didn’t allow for the correct shapes to be made; although much care
was taken in gathering the dress it was impossible to ensure both lines were
even; having only one securing stitch through the gathers was not strong enough
to hold the bulk and heaviness of the fabric. All these obstacles I encountered
really allowed for me to think creatively for a solution. After much
consideration I decided to experiment with drawstrings, as they would allow me
to modify the shape of the dress easily and precisely. Additionally, the wearer
could use this feature to alter the appearance of the dress to fit their
individual shape. I found this technique extremely successful and am really
pleased I moved away from stitched gathers.
To create the bodice of the dress component I draped a simple bodice
onto the mannequin and used cotton tape to experiment with the curve of the
hem. I wanted to follow the general shape of the jacket but also create a
fitted appearance around the top of the bodice. After much difficulty in
draping a fitted bodice with a comfortable hem, I decided to use an alternative
technique. Using the patternmaking technique slash and spread, I was able to
create an evenly dispersed hemline while not sacrificing the fitted shape of
the shoulder and neckline shape.
The combining of the bodice and skirt of the dress was difficult
using the drape technique on the stand, as the curve of the bodice hem was too
acute. Again, I turned to basic patternmaking techniques to create the shape of
the skirt top. This ensured a perfect fit and no excessive bulk. I followed the
same technique when developing the back of the dress.
Upon completing the dress and combining both the dress and jacket on
the stand, further adjustments were again made. The contrast of textures
between the smooth jacket and the full dress were too stark. There needed to be
a connecting element. This is when I began to experiment with
cording/drawstrings on the jacket. After much experimentation, it was decided
that the drawstring would follow the curved hem along the front, starting and
ending 20cm from the extended side seam hem.
Throughout the development process of this look, I was always
mindful of how my embroidery sample will be applied. After initially
visualizing the embroidery as an all over texture, I began to experiment with a
“placement print”. I settled on featuring the sample along the left shoulder of
the jacket, and the cording hanging around the front and the back. These
hanging cords would be tacked.
As a look, all the components compliment each other to achieve a
deconstructionist modern aesthetic inspired by my mapping concept. My initial understanding of maps really progressed and developed while in India and while draping. Mapping extends
Upon reflection, my successful combining of garment and textile has truly reflected the interconnectedness of my mapping concept.
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